Jaguar Depth Chart: 1.1.6, 2.1 (via Guitar Player)
By now, most of us have heard the “jaguar depth chart” that was shared by Jaguar and Fender in March, where the Jaguar guitar models were listed alphabetically by model name.
In this chart, the Jaguar guitars listed in the top half of each fretboard column have a depth value of 1.0, and the rest of the guitars have a value of 0.5.
While it’s true that the depth of a guitar can vary considerably, the depth chart is useful because it allows for a comparison of a given model to a similarly priced guitar.
It’s important to note that there’s a bit of an “outlier” in this chart: the Fender Stratocaster and Gibson SG1 are both listed at 0.7.
As a result, the fretboard value for the Fenders Stratocasters is a little higher than that of the Fords, but it’s a very minor outlier.
For a full explanation of the depth and depth value charts, check out our full Jaguar Depth chart article.
But before we get into the Jaguar depth chart itself, let’s get a quick overview of the guitar’s body, neck, and bridge.
For now, let me just say that the neck of the Jaguar is an excellent, solid, and very accurate instrument.
It looks like it was designed by a professional engineer, and has a very rich, deep tone and playability.
The guitar’s bridge, though, is also solid, but not quite as deep as it looks.
As an example, here’s a close-up of the fret board, which shows that the bridge is about 1.5 mm deeper than the rest: It’s not a big deal, but for a guitar with such a deep sound and tone, the bridge has a lot of work to do.
If you have a very heavy, heavy guitar that requires a lot more tuning than most people do, the neck will need to be made wider to keep the bridge from vibrating too much.
The neck, fretboard, and neck joint are all very close together, which is something you need to pay attention to when making guitar repairs.
The bridge itself has a single bolt in the middle that sits between the neck and the body.
It has an adjustable, spring-loaded nut that fits in between the nut and the bridge joint, and is easily adjusted.
The nut has a long, thin, curved tailpiece that attaches to the nut with a thumbscrew that slides up from the bridge’s back, and it has a screw in the end to secure it to the body: If the bridge nut is too loose or too tight, the nut will slide down too far and cause the neck to slide off.
If the nut is tight, it won’t slide down and the neck won’t stay in place: The bridge and neck have a pair of adjustable screws that can be used to adjust the bridge: If you’ve ever heard a guitar that has a big, flimsy body and the guitar has a bridge that looks like a pair, you know that a guitar bridge has to be a good one.
Unfortunately, most guitars today are not as great as they once were, and we have to work with a bridge we’re not used to.
If we’re going to be repairing a guitar, we need to get a guitar to play with.
So, while the neck may look like it’s been designed by professional engineers, the guitar itself is in fact made by people who aren’t necessarily professional engineers.
If this guitar doesn’t have the right parts, then it won (or will be) a complete failure.
The fretboard is a great example of this.
It does have a nice, thick, sturdy fretboard that fits comfortably in your hand.
But the neck is just too wide for my liking.
The headstock has a little “snake” shape that creates a slight gap between the fret and the top of the body when it is closed: While it has the right amount of depth, the headstock tends to be too narrow.
If it were wider, it would make the neck easier to play, but the head would have to be widened and made more comfortable.
To be clear, I’m not saying that a neck with too wide a headstock is bad.
But if the neck has too narrow a headstocks, it can create problems with the neck’s stability and play action.
So if the headstocks are too narrow, the strings will sit in a way that makes the neck difficult to play and will prevent it from being able to sustain a good rhythm.
If I had a guitar in which I needed to make repairs, I would make sure the neck was the right width to be able to accommodate a bridge.
There are also two ways to correct this problem.
One option is to put a longer nut in between and between the bridge and the head